More good times in the HB.
These last few days have been pretty chill. Due to the raging fires this season, and the fact that Whiting Ranch has been totally consumed, mountain biking has been out... and surfing has been what it´s about. It has been a little strange to surf to the haze of smoke and the smell of campfires, but breathing is a lot more managable here than inland. Anyhow, my daily ritual has been waking up, eating breakfast, and then hitting the water. Today being our last day here (10-29-2007), we went out a little early to surf to the sunrise. It was amazing. The morning started grey and quiet with no horizon--the ninja swells sneaking in through water that was nearly indistibguisable from sky.
Toward 9:00am the sun came out (while I was under water!), so that when I surfaced the ocean was suddenly visable. It was incredible! It was like an ocean-rise if you could call it that--turqouise and green sparkling with sunlight, reflecting the bowl of the suddenly blue sky.
And I have to admit, my paddling, duck dive, and turtling skills are tons better than they were. For those that don´t know, duck diving is where you push the tip of your board under and through the wave to prevent getting your ass knocked off, while turtling, done mostly on a longboard since you can´t duck dive it, means that you flip upside down and pull the nose of the board to you as you slip under a wave. What this amounts to is saving a ton of energy to burn up actually catching waves, which is a helluva lot funner than going through the rinse cycle over and over again.
Below are a couple of shots of the crew, and a couple videos. Enjoy!
These last few days have been pretty chill. Due to the raging fires this season, and the fact that Whiting Ranch has been totally consumed, mountain biking has been out... and surfing has been what it´s about. It has been a little strange to surf to the haze of smoke and the smell of campfires, but breathing is a lot more managable here than inland. Anyhow, my daily ritual has been waking up, eating breakfast, and then hitting the water. Today being our last day here (10-29-2007), we went out a little early to surf to the sunrise. It was amazing. The morning started grey and quiet with no horizon--the ninja swells sneaking in through water that was nearly indistibguisable from sky.
Toward 9:00am the sun came out (while I was under water!), so that when I surfaced the ocean was suddenly visable. It was incredible! It was like an ocean-rise if you could call it that--turqouise and green sparkling with sunlight, reflecting the bowl of the suddenly blue sky.
And I have to admit, my paddling, duck dive, and turtling skills are tons better than they were. For those that don´t know, duck diving is where you push the tip of your board under and through the wave to prevent getting your ass knocked off, while turtling, done mostly on a longboard since you can´t duck dive it, means that you flip upside down and pull the nose of the board to you as you slip under a wave. What this amounts to is saving a ton of energy to burn up actually catching waves, which is a helluva lot funner than going through the rinse cycle over and over again.
Below are a couple of shots of the crew, and a couple videos. Enjoy!
After a hard day surfing
That is a text book example of ¨Shit-eating grin¨on Cash. The gentlemen on either side are Chris (left) and our pal Jason (right). Thanks guys for letting us use your boards!!Here are some videos!
River Jetties-- one particular surfspot in Southern Huntington Beach
1 comment:
I miss the Ninja man!
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